Christmas

Surfed some Big Mole Point. BIG.
Paddled out by myself (later found out Middles was perfect, grrr.) Really only got one good wave. The tide was super high so where you ussually take off was not breaking and the waves backed off until they ledged hard. But this one wave I got a kick ass bottom turn (my fins just barley hung on) then I snapped and stalled a little bit then I got a sort of cut back then I got a killer cutback on the inside. I let a lot of really good waves go by because I was out by meslef and really ddn't want to get caught inside. And, the waves were really hard to catch. Had to get out becasue Kate was there and we were supposed to be back to open presents. Water was really nice, way clear and glassy. Beautiful prefrontal day.

Got home Christmas was cool.
Gave:
Dad - Book
Pam - Lights
Todd - Beer (drank one)
Mom - Bird nester
Laclan - Airplanes and 20 question guesser
Lilly - Butterfly light and socks
Kids were great. House was awesome. Funnnnnn