Carmel Rivermouth

I couldn't believe it! Carmel Rivermouth, that steeep beach with a sandy gnarly unsurfable closeout for the last 25 years has a wave. It breaks along the rocks at the north end of the beach and then dumps like nothing you have ever seen on the sand. There are some pits though! Last night I came to PG to put a new CD in the Juice and Java Kiosk and I jammed over to the lagoon afterwards. I meditated on gettting three good waves becasue it was almost dark. The sunset was awesome. My first wave I got a great bottom turn and nice snap in front of the sunset. I got a couple of big sandy bombs. One was a huge wall just standing up on dry sand. The wave was all dark and full of sand and I felt like my fins were just barely hanging in there. I dove off my board at the last secnd and jeust barely penettrated the back of the wave getting spit through the back spray. Coooooollll. I will have to head back there tonight!

The coolest thing was, I got an email earlier in the day from Rachael about how things that seem scary at one stage in your life are actually really cool at another stage. I remembered being a little kid, getting sucked out of the river towards the ocean trying to hang on to a whiffle ball bat for a surfboard. Scared me terriblly. My sister had to pull me out. Then yesterday I was riding those things and just loving it!